Guide to Sri Lanka
A rough guide to some of the places you can visit, explore and munch in this amazing country; you can include as much or as little from this guide as you like.
There are 2 simple ways to plan your journey around Sri Lanka: some people work their way clockwise between the destinations (following the order that I’ve written them) or anticlockwise, heading South first before working their way inland. I have done the latter both times, because I love the South coast and surfing! But ultimately it’s so easy to get around on the buses and trains, you can do it in whatever order you like.
Note: it’s worth joining Facebook groups which are super active and full of great advice/you can ask any questions you have before you arrive and while you’re there:
Sri Lanka Backpackers
South Coast
Sri Lanka Surf Community
Many people I’ve met have begun their journey flying into Colombo airport, staying a night in a hostel nearby then getting the train to Kandy the next morning.
Kandy
I’ve not personally been to Kandy as I’ve chosen to spend my time closer to the South coast, but I’ve heard that although this is a more cultural city, you don’t really need to spend much longer than a night here.
Sigiriya
You could spend the night before climbing Lions Rock in the morning for sunrise. I’ve been told that it’s far better to climb Pidurangala, another hill nearby, since it’s much cheaper and lets you actually see the famous Lions Rock from the top, rather than being on it! My friend stayed at a treehouse hostel, which she said was incredible and made great friends at, but it was home to a few friendly animals (like snakes) too.
From Sigiriya, you can hop back to Kandy or catch the train to any of the following:
Nuwarah Eliya
Known as ‘little England’, the men who owned tea plantations back in the 1800s built these towns in the hills with a more European influence, so they’re fun to stop in and see British-style buildings. Lots of places here offer afternoon tea and suchlike, but I think this is more entertaining for people who aren’t from the UK! There are lots of hikes and waterfalls around here; just ask your guesthouse for their recommendations.
Haputale
I found this town a little intense, as I was alone and no one else was even staying in the same hostel! Despite this, you could head up to a little monastery for the afternoon, then wake up at sunrise to walk to Lipton’s seat (which is beautiful) and see all the local tea pickers at work. There are lots of other hikes to explore around here with waterfalls as their end destination, such as Lovers Leap, but I only spent one night in Haputale before getting the train to Ella. You could also walk from Haputale to Ella down the railway tracks, or get the train one way and walk back - this lets you enjoy the incredible views of the 8-hour famous train ride, in just under 2 hours.
Hatton
You can stop in Hatton for the night before waking up super early (or late, however you see it) to trek up Adam’s Peak for sunrise. This can be extremely busy at the height of tourist season, but if you’re planning on going whilst there aren’t many travellers, this would be great! You’ll probably meet people to walk with in your hostel or guesthouse. There’s also a viewpoint called ‘Worlds End’ nearby, which promises epic views across the tree-filled valleys before 10am. After mid-morning, the sharp drop-off ends up full of swirling mist in the heat of the sun; you can reach the viewpoint via a few different routes, depending how far you want to walk.
Ella
Sweet little Ella! This small town on a hill is very cute, and you can easily pass a few days here with the activities in and around the main road. Cooking classes are very popular here - I’d recommend heading up to Matey Hut for your first meal in Ella (it is really sensational) and signing up to one of their super-popular classes in a couple of days’ time.
Also in the area: Little Adam’s Peak, 9 Arch Bridge, Ella Rock and Diyaluma Waterfalls are all worth the walk - especially Ella Rock - but maybe make sure you have someone to walk with, as the route can get a little confusing. You can also download maps.me ahead of time, which will help if you find yourself lost!
Yala or Udawalawe National Parks
The latter almost guarantees animal sightings, as it’s set in a much smaller area. You can generally split the cost of safari entry and a 4x4 with other people, and I’d only spend one night here, waking up for the morning safari and getting the bus in the afternoon, either up to Ella or down to the South coast.
Note: ask around for which bus route is best! I’ve had to stop in random towns in the middle of nowhere before and it got a little scary. There are direct buses between Ella and the South coast, so I’d advise just waiting the extra hour or 2 instead of having to change. Keep your valuables on you while you’re on the bus, as you really have no idea what they do with your backpack underneath the bus and it can sometimes be wet down there! There are also Facebook groups for sharing lifts between these places, or you could always order a PickMe (like Uber) if you wanted to be a little more fancy.
South Coast
I have a tonne of recommendations for places to stay (wherever I stayed, really) and eat on the South coast on my blog, so I’ll link these with each area.
Tangalle
This town is such a dream! Right at the end of the South coast, there isn’t too much going on here but that’s almost a good thing - you can get a feel for ‘raw’ Sri Lanka. Head to Silent Beach for the most amazing, untouched golden sands and palms - this is technically Amanwella’s beach, the fanciest hotel in the whole of Sri Lanka, but you’re welcome to bathe, swim and walk here too. The other local beaches host nightly bonfires which are super beautiful and lovely - get a fish bbq’d fresh for you there and then, and you’ll never look back. Side note: tuna fish is really incredible in SL and is so cheap! If you eat fish, order it whenever you can. There is also a more beach-resort area in Tangalle, where you can meet other travellers, find Western food etc. and a larger choice of hostels.
Our accommodation offered us a FREE cooking class which was so much fun! At first I was worried that we wouldn’t find enough to do in Tangalle, but on reflection, I wish we had stayed a night or two longer.
See blog post here for more info.
Hiriketiya / Dikwella
You don’t need to move accommodation to see both of these towns, as they’re only a short walk away from each other. This might be your first opportunity to surf if you chose to head inland to the hills first! In Hiriketiya bay, board rental can be bartered down to 400 for 2 hours, and I’d advise sticking to the right (as you look out to sea) if you’re a beginner. You’re almost guaranteed to have so much fun here - I looove this place. There are endless dirt paths to explore, bougie coffee shops to explore and eat at (Mond, Dots, Boho, Verse) and amazing local eats to be found everywhere. If you stick to the local places, I genuinely think this might be the cheapest area to eat in SL. These places I just mentioned also offer beautiful private rooms and hostel options, which work out pretty expensive in comparison to other places, but you’ll find a whole host of fun people to meet and endless good times to be had; they often host live music nights and weekly events, as well as yoga classes and surfboard rental, too.
Dickwella might not seem as beautiful as the horseshoe bay of Hiriketiya, but the locals are so welcoming into their little restaurants and are so happy to see you try new things. Head inland to explore more cultural attractions like the Big Buddha and the Monastery on the hill etc. Just be careful of guides! They will seem lovely showing you around then try to charge you 2000 rupees for a tour you didn’t ask for.
See blog post here for further details.
Matara
Other than changing buses here (it’s a major bus terminal) I’ve never stayed in Matara. Local people are always happy to direct you to the next bus, so don’t hesitate in asking if you need help. There is apparently a great surf spot nearby called SK town, but you can get to this easily from the next place I’m about to mention. Also, the next few places aren’t very far from each other and it’s super easy to hop onto a bus and get between each town. Just make sure you have mobile data and you can follow your location on Google maps, so you know when to hop off!
Madiha/Polhena
A small up-and-coming town, walk away from the main road towards the sea to find your new friends! People gather at The Doctors House throughout the week (they have event nights, you can find them on FB or Insta @thedoctorshouse) for beers, market days, Western food and good fun. I wouldn’t recommend staying at their hostel accommodation, though - it gets super loud, is the most expensive hostel in the whole of SL and isn’t very clean. Nearby, some guys I know own Stoked Sri Lanka surf camp (@stokedsrilanka) and although it’s kinda far from the main beginner surf breaks, they sort transport, food and everything out for you, so you don’t have to worry about a thing.
You can also snorkel at Polhena beach and you’re almost guaranteed to see giant sea turtles less than 20m from shore, which is pretty amazing. Mask and snorkel rental should be around 300 rupees, but you’ll forget about that once you’ve swam around with the turtles for a while.
Mirissa
The most touristy part of Sri Lanka, Mirissa is party central in the best of ways. Although it’s a little cringey, there are really fun beach parties where you can get cheap beer, cocktail happy hours and candle-lit dinners of seared tuna and fresh fish. Ask around after 5pm to find out where the party is at: every night a different beach club hosts the dancing, with blaring Sri Lankan techno remixes and endless drinks from a freezer box.
There are more ‘staple’ things to see and do here: Coconut Tree Hill, Secret Beach, get a massage at the Sacred Root Spa, eat a roti at #1 Dewmini Roti Hut, get a smoothie bowl at Shady Lane… Google and Instagram are your friends here to show you what’s around.
We were staying in Mirissa when we went to the Doctors House, and even after midnight a tuktuk cost around 700 rupees to get back to the afterparty in Mirissa. I stayed at MyHostel twice, once in a private room and once in a dorm; the dorm rooms are cheap, clean, offer huge bathrooms and a space for laundry drying - as well as a free basic breakfast and events to gather guests together. I’d recommend highly!
You can see the blog post about my more recent stay here, where we stayed in a lovely little guest house literally 100m down the road from MyHostel, which offered an incredible spread for free breakfast, private room and ensuite. It all depends whether you want your own space or prefer to interact with people 24/7. I wouldn’t necessarily say I’m a hostel-loving girl, but I did love the constant change of faces, stories and conversations every day whilst travelling alone.
You can read more here.
Weligama
There are so many places to eat in this lovely town: Ceylon Sliders, Dulneetha, the local cream shops for a lassi and ‘hotels’ (which are restaurants) like ZamZam just opposite the bus station. You can get curry & rice for 100 rupees in these tiny places, and it’s a good opportunity to try lots of their snacks (the triangle vegetable roti are my weakness) for around 10 rupees each.
Weligama is home to an amazing surf beach break which can get a little crowded, but it’s so fun to just play around and not care so much what you’re doing! Hire a foam board and get loose on the waves, or ask for a lesson in the white wash. You can also ask a local or at your surf camp to take you to Fishermans Point one day, once you’re confident about catching green waves - this is one of my favourite breaks in the world.
There’s not a lot going on in this town after 7pm unless you’re staying in a hostel; I made friends for life at Layback Hostel, who I’d really recommend staying with. I think they’re transitioning into some kind of yoga/surf hostel, so I’d check them out. Also Hangover Hostel has a little more party (but not as much as the name suggests!) with open mic nights etc and 2 yoga classes every day.
See blogpost here for a little more inspo.
Midigama
A small town, mainly focused around the surf breaks - which are a little more intermediate, but offer channels which make it easier to paddle out (lazy left and lazy right are good fun and offer a smaller shoulder if you’re not feeling so confident.)
Coconut Beach is a lovely area to hang out, with some great places to eat - Jamu, Dorians, Mamas, the Blue Porch. There are lots of yoga studios around, some of which offer more of a ‘hang-out with coffee’ vibe - Ajna had just opened and looked beautiful, but I never got a chance to try a class there.
Ahangama
My first time in SL I stayed at Camp Poe for 6 nights, which I loved! I made lots of friends around my age, we all surfed together, ate together and chilled together. I also bumped into them a lot in different towns when I moved on. Staying in a surf camp for your first week allows you to get a feel for things and not be thrown in the deep end so much - you can work out how much a bus or tuktuk should cost, distances between places, always have the option of a buddy to explore with or a common area to chill and make food.
There are also more bougie places to eat, hang out and stay in Ahangama: Dreamsea, The Kip, The Palm and Citra all have amazing menus and spaces to just hang out, even if you only order a juice or coffee. We found it more difficult to find good, cheap and authentic local food here - but since it’s less than 15 minutes on the bus to Midigama or Weligama, it can be nice to be a little further out and head into the town in the evening.
The surf breaks in Ahangama are more advanced, but I was still able to head out back with my surf instructors’ guidance on my first day. Board rental is more of a struggle here too! Everyone recommends going to Cheeky Monkeys, which is widely known as the best board rental place on the South coast, just down the road in Midigama.
Unawatuna
I’ve never stayed in Unawatuna specifically, although I have a friend who works at Surf Spirit surf camp. Slightly set back in the jungle, they are aimed at a German audience (but obviously everyone is welcome) and their local break is at Dewata Beach. From what I’ve heard the waves are very small here, and great for learning! It’s quite a touristy area - I ate at Teddy by Hopper for dinner one night and it was delicious, beautiful and fairy-lit on the beach. Otherwise, I can’t really comment on the town.
Galle
A super-fun day trip from Ahangama, Midigama or Weligama, you can get to Galle by train or bus. I wouldn’t recommend staying here simply because there isn’t that much to do! It’s beautiful, though, is pretty much the only place with actual shopping to be done (if you see something here, buy it!) and is so lovely to get lost in the European-style streets. Food is more expensive here, but there are some tiny local options too. Poonie’s Kitchen is set in the back of a shop, where you eat in a beautiful courtyard and can sip on jaggery-iced coffee amidst the plants. You should probably also get an Isle of Gelato double scoop while you’re here, too, since ice creams other than Cornettos are few and far between in Sri Lanka!
Hikkaduwa
A very Westernised town, Hikkaduwa is home to one main beach surf break which peels both ways. I found good food here, but only stayed for 2 nights on my first trip before heading to the airport, making the journey back an hour or so shorter. There are lots of beach parties each night with bonfires and drinks flowing, but I loved the feel of the South coast far more. There are also lots of sea turtles off the coast, so if you miss them in Polhena, make sure you rent a mask and snorkel here.
General Tips:
Buy a local sim in the airport when you land
Ask your taxi driver to stop at an ATM on the way to your accommodation, so you don’t pay someone in the airport to convert it for you - it’s a closed currency (use Monzo or Revolut for no fees!)
Eat all the roti, rice & curry & coconut pancakes you possibly can! Things will get spicy, garlicky and oh so delicious. My taste buds are tingling just thinking about it!
All the fruit is delicious - people will offer you to try in the markets, and they just want you to try it, not necessarily buy it!
You can pretty much barter everything.
Download the PickMe app to your phone (like Uber)
It can be cheaper to look on booking.com or hostel world to see which hostels have space, then message them directly and pay in cash.
Be careful with the local men! Especially if drinks are involved. Make sure you’re with someone else, don’t accept an offer of meeting their family and don’t believe them when they say they’re single.
Make friends at your surf camp so that you can head to new surf spots together. It’s infinitely more fun when you have friends to encourage and try new things with!
Overall, I’d say Sri Lanka is an awesome country to try out the ‘free-flow’ style of travel. Hostels are flexible, you can hop on a bus and be at your destination within the same day, it can be ridiculously cheap and the food is incredible. There are also so many other people doing the same thing, it would be hard to leave without making friends and amazing memories.