Camiguin
The island of fire!
We took the Super Shuttle ferry from Jagna, Bohol, to Camiguin at 13.00. Walking from our hotel took around 30 minutes, and we explored the little port town for some food before eventually deciding to eat where all the school kids were eating. This was inside the market, from an endless array of tray food; we got chicken and vegetables, green beans and rice and this was the perfect satisfying lunch before a long four hour ferry in the stifling heat - although luckily there was no wind, so the sea was glassy and smooth.
We arrived at Benoni Port, paid 250php for a tricycle to our hotel Paguia’s Cottages, freshened up a little and walked to Kurma for date night dinner, which we had researched and read is one of the best feasts in the area. We ordered the coconut burger (which is famous!) with cassava chips, as well as the squid rice bowl. The burger is honestly without a doubt one of the best burgers I’ve ever tasted in my life. With the bun, patty and jam all made from coconut, this is a vegan dream! Fab’s rice bowl was a little let down, although delicious scooped up with the chips. Finishing the meal with another of their famous options, leche flan, we left happy, full and content after a night under the festoon lights.
Day 2
We scooted down to the old volcano walk, which promised a challenging 40-minute uphill slog. However, after only 20 minutes walking in the drizzle (and a long discussion about religion, as they have turned this walk into a shrine for the story of Jesus’ death) we reached the end and headed back.
After this, we headed to the old Spanish ruins which only cost 10php each to enter, and is a beautifully green, shady area to spend 20 minutes exploring.
We swung into the Beehive cafe, ordering their special health brew (coffee, cocoa, cinnamon, turmeric, coco sugar) and roasted macadamia coffee. These were delicious and huge mugs!
After this, we headed to Katibawasan waterfalls back up north, which was beautiful but we weren’t ready to jump into the murky brown pool at the bottom. At the top, we got a bbq’d banana which was smothered in butter then dipped in brown sugar, which the lady in charge assured us was a local delicacy - and delicious it was! We headed into the central market of Mambajao, where we found the famous Pastel de Camiguin were unavailable - so instead opted for the most amazing most banana bread and choc-chip doughnut.
After a quick drive up another hill and a dip in the hot springs, heated in separate trickling pools from a cooler 28 degrees up to 31 degrees, we chose Checkpoint as our next dinner date option. Fresh, raw meat is displayed and they cook your chicken to order - plus garlic rice, chop suey and a halo halo to finish.
Day 3
We scooted 30 minutes to just before Benoni Port - there is a fork in the road and signs point to the natural protected area of Mantigue. We bumped into another English couple who asked if we’d like to share a boat, as well as a Filipino couple exploring the area - which brought our boat cost for the two of us, including snorkelling and environmental fees (70 php) to 360php. A complete bargain!
Mantigue Island was a beautiful escape from the clouds that cover the peak of Mt Hibok Hibok in Camiguin. The white sand is far from the volcanic black sand, and the heat was intense! We snorkelled and saw some of the most beautiful colourful (note: alive) coral I’ve ever seen, and other people whispered of turtles to the east of the little island. The current was very strong to swim against, but they have helpfully put out rope buoys to assist with this. Feeling a little peckish, we checked out the one restaurant that is available on the island, however it is horrifically expensive!
So we decided just to wait and get food en route home at Hayahay, famous for their smoothie bowls and charcoal-banana pancakes. We opted to share the Bikini Kini bowl, which was such a huge portion and served with a beautiful flower on the top. So much attention to detail in Camiguin. For a late dinner, we chose Dolce Vita which was supposedly the best pizza on the island - but we didn’t feel like it was anything special, and shared this and a salad.
Day 4
Waking up early, we headed to Johnny’s Dive Centre for Fab to do 2 fun dives and for me to do a Discover Scuba Diving course; for anyone who knew me when I was young, this is a super big deal for me! It was incredible, and can’t believe I made it all the way down to 12 metres with only a brief freak-out - saw five turtles and some of the most amazing coral I think my eyes will ever see.
After this, we got a chocolate cheese pastry in Mambajao, then headed back to the Beehive cafe for a dragon fruit shake, french press of fresh coffee and a honeycomb cookie - which is kind of like an oat, cake, cookie hybrid. Not too sweet and delicious.
We popped into Kurma to watch the sunset, where the free diving instructor offered a free coconut that they had literally just chopped down from the tree. With a SML in hand, we sat and chatted about our travels, achievements and life, then headed home to freshen up.
With Kurma’s delicious food on the brain, we couldn’t help but head back for our second dinner there; we ordered the vegan steak, which is a great hunk of roasted pumpkin, smothered in fermented black bean miso pesto, topping a mung bean risotto and home made kimchi on the side. Adding their salad with lentils and a crunchy fried, egg, this meal was amazing!
Day 5
We had brunch at Kurma, which includes a coffee, tea or native hot chocolate in the price. We got their island bowl of a mountain of fresh fruit and home made yoghurt, jam and toast, as well as their shakshuka which came with a fresh-baked ciabatta. After this, we headed back to collect our bags and got a tricycle to the airport, where we boarded our Cebu Pacific flight to Cebu.
