Hanoi, Vietnam

We landed in Hanoi at 20.30, with our bags unloaded in record time and finding immigration to be a breeze. We found great Viettel 30 day SIM cards and an ATM right next door, so our departure from the airport was super speedy. We waited outside the airport for the number 86 bus, which officials told us was still going; the taxi guides were insistent that it would be much faster in their minibus, but we stayed strong and waited for the last coach of the evening at around 21.45 into the centre of Hanoi. After waiting for at least half an hour (for a bus that is supposedly more often) it became apparent that we hadn’t realised we were arriving into Vietnam on the day of Tet - the country’s biggest celebration of the year, their new lunar year celebrations. Doh! 

After luckily hopping onto the 86 replacement coach and walking for around 10 minutes, we arrived at our Airbnb. We stayed here, handily located right by St Joseph’s Cathedral, which I would totally recommend, but because we were visiting in January, we could definitely have benefitted from a heater!

Day 1

We woke up, eager to explore the city but now with the knowledge that some places would be shut or offering limited menus, opening times etc. We started the day with a beautiful huge bowl of bun riem - noodle soup - opting for tofu and plenty of chilli to warm us up.

We hadn’t packed for the colder weather up North, and were soon shivering as we made our way around the city. Fortunately, Hanoi is known as a key maker and supplier of outdoor wear, specifically The North Face, so after trying on about 20 different jackets in stores around the old quarter, we were both layered up and ready to get outside again.

After researching some of Hanoi’s best coffee shops, we stopped for an egg coffee at Coffee 24. Nervous about what we were about to drink, I couldn’t believe the silky smooth bliss that crossed my lips. Egg yolk, whipped up with condensed milk and added to a strong dark Vietnamese coffee, is one of the most incredible flavours, desserts(?) amazing indulgences that I have tried in Asia.

We walked around, gaining our bearings, and stopped for a spring roll filled with peanut, papaya, salad, carrot, topped with mayonnaise and sweet chilli sauce and enjoyed right there on the pavement. After more walking, we saw lots of people with glasses full of a white substance at one particular cafe…

Once this image was in my mind, we wandered back and ordered a yoghurt with coffee and a yoghurt with cacao. Oh my goodness, yet another feast of the most amazing frozen yoghurt, which melts down to combine with the Milo powder, into such a decadent and unexpected treat!

After chilling back at the Airbnb for a little while, editing photos and layering up again, we headed out to find our second bowl of noodle soup for the day. I love how these bowls offer the chance to create a completely different meal every time, by adding whole bowls of fresh leaves and herbs, hot chilli paste and tangy garlic-infused vinegar.

After chowing down on our amazing feast, which I made so spicy I ended up taking my coat off, and grabbing 2 beers at Circle K to enjoy alongside, I happily declared that the bowl of noodles has made my top 10 meals of all time - it was THAT good.

We headed back to beer street to enjoy some Hanoi beer, socialise and soak up the travelling atmosphere that we didn’t seem to find so easily whilst in Sri Lanka. It seemed to quieten down at around 23.00, when we headed home to snuggle up and get some sleep.

Day 2

We woke up early, grabbed a Vietnamese black coffee from Hanah’s Place literally 2 steps from our front door (which was so strong I genuinely felt like I could hear colours) and begun our mission of finding our first Banh Mi.

Because of Tet, many places were offering a very limited menu, so we kept on looking until we found a little cafe where many people were munching on the fresh bread wonders. I ordered the grilled chicken, whilst Fab got the grilled pork - topped with papaya, lettuce, carrot, tomato, cucumber, mayo, special sauce and sweet chilli sauce, the baguettes are incredible soft and light, whilst the outside maintains a gentle crisp. Served in a piece of paper stapled together, we watched the street life of Hanoi as people walked by, parked their scooters and slurped their noodles over the street…

We were beginning to fall for the European-influence of the city and the awesome selection of delicious food available on literally every corner. We headed in the direction of Blackbird coffee shop, which we had found the day before, with a promise of a good wifi connection and workspace. Ordering an Americano and fresh-pressed juice, we made the most of the communal work space and had a productive afternoon.

We rewarded ourselves with some delicious pho, which we made incredibly spicy and lime-y! We wandered around the French Quarter that evening, stumbling upon a dessert shop which was serving exactly what I had read about and was craving: che thap can - tapioca boba, jelly, condensed and coconut milk, red beans, kidney beans and an ultimate sugar hit - reminding us of the good times eating halo-halo in the Philippines.

Do you have any unmissable recommendations in Hanoi? If so, I’d love to hear where!